Friday, December 21, 2007

Homestays, the Campo, and Despedidas


Dear friends and family,

It has now been a little over two weeks since I arrived in Nicaragua. My first full week here in Managua was spent living with a host family in Barrio La Luz, about 3 blocks from the JVI house. I lived with Martin, Blanca, Kennia, and Kenneth from Sunday until Friday, and in the afternoons I attended Spanish language school a few blocks away. The family was wonderful. Like many Nicaragua families they lived a very humble lifestyle but were more than willing to dedicate their resources toward making their guests feel welcome. They took me out to dinner my first night with them, and the rest of the week was filled with great conversations, playing with the kids, and spending hours on the edge of my seat watching epic soap operas. Nicaraguan and U.S. politics were a hot topic of discussion, as the family is very politically conscious. My host dad, Martin, joined the Sandinista army in 1984 and fought against the U.S.- backed Contras in the north of Nicaragua for two years, so he is quite intrigued by the political happenings in the U.S. and Nicaragua. Another hot topic of discussion was the politics behind public services in Nicaragua, namely electricity and water. Electricity is privatized here, owned by a Spanish company, and the service is terrible. Most houses in the capital have frequent and lengthy power cuts. Water is run by the state, and the service is also terrible. My host family has no running water from 9am to 3pm every day. The public service situation has only been getting worse, and people here are getting quite fed up both with state-run services and with private companies operating their essential services.
A week of language school was wonderful. My grammar teacher, a 20-year old, well dressed evangelical worked with me all week to review almost every grammatical concept I had learned in Spanish classes throughout high school and college. I still have a lot of work to do with the language, but it was helpful to brush up on my shabby grammar. I finished language school on a Friday afternoon and said goodbye to my host family as I prepared to temporarily move back in to the JVI house. The goodbye was not difficult, as we were all reassured by the fact that I would live 3 blocks away from the family for the next two years. I hope that I will continue to build a relationship with this family and that through them I will feel more connected to the Barrio La Luz community.
The night that I came home to the JVI house from my homestay I had the pleasure of meeting up with my good friend Dan who was passing through Managua, and we enjoyed a few quality Nicaraguan beers with the rest of my community mates. The next day was the ‘despedida’, or goodbye party for Matt and Adriana, the two Jesuit Volunteers who have just completed their two years here. It was fun to see how many people here they had made friends with…everyone from their coworkers to neighbors to random acquaintances showed up to celebrate.
The next morning Jenna (the other first year volunteer) and I said our goodbyes to Matt and Adriana and headed to the campo (countryside) just south of Volcán Masaya to live in another homestay for 4 days. I love life in the campo. The only sounds are that of animals, wind in the trees, and the occasional pickup truck, a nice relief from the craziness that is Managua. We spent much of our time tagging along with the community leaders and the community youth group. The community of Arenal (made up of five smaller communities) is extremely well organized and has formed a community organization to address a number of issues and goals. There are subgroups within the community that focus on youth development, maintaining local culture through dance, empower women who travel every day to the city to work in sweatshops, and get on the government’s case about access to potable water. We got to spend a lot of time with the youth of the community and a youth group from the city lead by two Jesuit novices. One of the highlights of our time with the youth was traveling to a local town to watch the community dance troupe practice for a performance in Costa Rica. On the way there we packed 17 people into the back of a pickup, which was definitely illegal, given that 15 people is the maximum allowed capacity. It poured rain on us as we sang Nicaragua folk songs together (I was a little rusty on the melodies and lyrics). One of our last days in the campo we actually traveled to Managua with a couple of the community leaders who were demanding that the government cooperate with the community’s plan to install a new water system that would bring potable water to two communities that are currently without water. Lack of access to water, especially in the campo, is a huge issue in Nicaragua right now. I have heard that some communities only have water flowing one day a month, and as a result people are literally dying of thirst in a country with plenty of water to go around. In Arenal, kids aren’t showing up to school because they can’t wash their clothes due to the lack of water. The community has been pleading with the government to send a water technician to help them bring water to two smaller communities, and the government has done nothing. So the other day the community leaders went to the headquarters of ENACAL, the government water management office, to demand government cooperation. The people at ENACAL said they would cooperate and help the community get water to all of its inhabitants, as long as the community covered the cost. All in all, my time in the campo was not only relaxing and tranquilo (as is most time spent in the campo), but it was also a wonderful opportunity to see a well organized community take initiative to resolve its problems and achieve its goals.
I came back to Managua on Thursday and moved in to the JVI house, where I will now live permanently for the next two years. Matt and Adriana are gone, which is certainly sad at times, but I feel more grounded here now with the knowledge that my five housemates right now will make up my community for the next year, and that I won’t be moving in and out with more homestays. This will be the first Christmas I’ve ever spent away from my family, but I’m looking forward to sharing in it with my five community mates who are also not accustomed to spending the holidays in another culture far from home. Thanks for reading this longer than usual entry. Peaceful and happy holidays.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

I have now completed about 4 days in Nicaragua, which have undoubtedly been some of the most overwhelming in recent history. The first 48 hours or so were extremely difficult due to very intense emotional ups and downs, ranging from sheer excitement to be doing such an exciting thing in Nicaragua to total panic and nervousness at the thought of not being able to handle my job (which starts in January) or life in general in Managua. I think I've gotten over that emotional rollercoaster for the time being. The more I see the various sites at which the other Jesuit Volunteers work, the market where we do our weekly shopping, and the more people I meet from the local community the more I feel at home here. I am very greatful to be here for 2 years, as becoming fluent in the language and building a strong network of friends within the community and job site will be a lengthy but rewarding process.
They are celebrating the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary here, is...umm...interesting to be a part of the celebration. It involves a lot of singing, some trick-or-treat time of activities, and an ungodly amount of fireworks (which are currently going off in the street outside this internet cafe). Much of the last 4 days has been spent getting to know my housemates (I have 7 of them currently, and two will be leaving in one week), our families from our barrio, and how to live in Managua.
One of the most wonderful aspects of living in a community for 2 years is that you truly become a member of the community as opposed to a transient volunteer. Our house is constantly full of visitors due to the relationships that the 2nd year and exiting volunteers have created during their time here. We have kids stopping in all day to talk and play, neighbors stopping in to say hi, etc. Today we had Fernando Cardenal, a priest and notable figure in Nicaragua's revolutionary history, over for lunch. What a wonderful opportunity to be the "guest" in a country yet welcome so many locals into your home and serve them food, drinks, conversation, and a chance to rest. I love hospitality, and this culture has it down pat.
Over the next two years I expect to miss the U.S. and all my friends and family quite a bit, so for those who feel so inclined I would like to leave my contact information with you (in addition to email):

Home phone (calling from U.S.): 011-505-278-0565
Mailing address: Apdo. LM 161, Managua, Nicaragua

Thanks for reading. Peace be upon you.

Michael (Miguel) Marchesini

Monday, December 3, 2007

Last day in the USA


Friends and loved ones,

Tomorrow (tuesday) morning I will fly out to Managua, Nicaragua to begin two years of living and working through Jesuit Volunteers International (JVI). I'll be living in a house in the city with five other volunteers from the states, four of whom will be 2nd year volunteers when I arrive (the other will be a fellow first year volunteer). For the first month or so I will be in a training/orientation phase, which will consist of...well I have no idea. I think the purpose of this phase will be more or less to help me get used to living in Nicaragua and specifically Managua, work out the kinks and my Spanish speaking abilities, and prepare me for my job, which will begin in early January. My job ought to look something like this: I will be placed at a community center and will likely help run programs all day for at-risk youth. This will likely consist of a lot of tutoring and teaching. I'll have more info on the job in the coming weeks.
I was offered this position with JVI about 8 months ago, and frankely I never thought I'd see the day when I actually get up at 6am and hop on the plane. The idea of doing 2 years of volunteer work in Nicaragua has for a long time seemed like a very distant reality, something that I will do 'some day'. So it's a very weird sensation to finally have that day arrive. Yet for all the nervousness of life in a new country, a potentially difficult and stressful job, and the inevitable feelings of homesickness, I feel ready for this. I've known for years that after college I needed to spend some significant time in service/ accompaniment with marginalized or underprivileged people in order to better understand their plight, view my own life through a new lens, and develop within myself a lifelong ethic of service. A lot of you know that my heart is in Central America. You might also know that I love to work with youth and that through them I see a lot of hope for society. Furthermore, you may be aware that I tear it up at Spanish. So I really believe that this is the most natural step for me to take right now. I can't imagine a better fit than two years in Nicaragua, working with youth, and building community with locals and my housemates.
A quick word about Nicaragua, for those of you who are not too familiar with this place. Contrary to popular belief, Nicaragua is not in South America, nor is it part of Mexico. If you guessed either of those, however, you weren't too far off, because Nicaragua is in fact between Mexico and South America, in a little ithsmus called Central America. It is the second poorest country in the hemisphere (behind Haiti). Spanish is the spoken language. The western half of the country holds the main cities, while the eastern half is largely undeveloped and home to a variety of indigenous groups. The north is filled with beautiful mountains and a temperate climate, while Managua is basically at sea level and is probably the hottest place in the world. It is a very stable country considering its incredibly violent and turbulent recent history. For more info on Nicaragua, visit www.google.com. I hope to keep you all well updated when I arrive in Nicaragua!

With love,
Michael (Miguel) Marchesini